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King oyster mushroom

This king of the Murge has a unique, delicate flavor that enhances other ingredients rather than masking them.

Origin

Pleurotus eryngii, better known as the king oyster mushroom, is a weak parasite mushroom that ranges in color from beige or tan to a pale reddish gray. The stem is short, thick and cylindrical or tapered at the base. The natural habitat of this unique product is found in the heart of the Murge plateau on the border between Puglia and Basilicata, and the flavor evokes notes of fennel and bread dough. These mushrooms are found in  several areas of Italy including Basilicata, Calabria and Sardinia, but the poor soil with patchy grass in this part of Puglia are ideal for them, whether growing naturally or cultivated. Known by several names, including king trumpet mushroom, French horn mushroom and king brown mushroom, their scientific name Pleurotus Eryngii has been added to the national list of traditional agricultural products (Prodotti Agroalimentari Tradizionali or PAT) for the region of Puglia. Loved since the time of the ancient Romans, they were said to have supernatural powers, and were later studied during Medieval times and the Renaissance. Their resistance to cold and the lack of tolerance to temperature spikes ensures that they are available most of the year, except for the summer.

Cookit

Many people call this mushroom “honest” because there is no poisonous mushroom that resembles it. Others call it “delicate” because its aroma is subtle and elegant. In more recent times, it’s also referred to as “democratic” because its balanced flavor doesn’t cover the dishes it’s served with—if anything, it enhances them. Their “bread dough” aroma and firm, meaty texture make them idea for eating raw or cooked, as well as fried, cooked au gratin, or sauteed in olive oil, garlic and parsley. The king oyster mushroom is perfect in many recipes like risotto, soups or savory pastries. Their notable nutritional benefits make them a natural fit in any diet—Just think, fresh mushrooms contain on average 85-90% water, 4-5% sugars, 3.8-4% protein and 0.4-0.7% fat, and they also have all the essential amino acids and numerous vitamins like biotin. In Pugliese tradition they’re preserved in oil, which is easy to do. Just clean the mushrooms thoroughly, then bring vinegar to boil in a pan. Drop the mushrooms in for a few minutes. Then layer them in glass jars, covering each layer with grated garlic, parsley and chili. For the final touch, cover it all with extra virgin olive oil.

Did you know that

During the middle ages in Alto Lazio, innkeepers were forbidden to serve them because they were considered a strong aphrodisiac, and could therefore be a temptation for pilgrims. A farmer’s legend has it that king oyster mushrooms are the offspring of the thunder, born in the blanket of clouds covering the Murge. This ‘king’ of the Murge was at risk of extinction in the 80s but luckily bounced back and gained value thanks in part to an association of the friends of the king oyster mushroom—a movement that includes farmers, foodies, chefs and local institutions. They’ve begun to promote the development of a whole range of typical Pugliese products, as well as the king oyster mushroom. It’s found a spokesperson in Renzo Arbore, who contributed to the spread of awareness about this product and its territory. But the first to recognize how good these mushrooms are was the poet Orazio—during one of his trips to Lucania he described them as the “food of the gods”.

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