Red gold of San Marzano, an important part of Campania’s culture. Try them with toasted bread
Origin
San Marzano tomatoes from Agro Sarnese-Nocerino are a variety that have obtained prestigious “DOP” status (Protected denomination of origin). It’s said that the first San Marzano tomato seeds arrived in Campania around 1770, as part of a gift from the Viceroy of Peru to the kingdom of Naples, and was then planted in what is now the town of San Marzano. The cultivar spread throughout that area due to its fertile volcanic soil. However, it was only after two centuries, in 1902, that we have definite proof that the San Marzano tomato was present in mainland Italy. In fact, it was right around that time that this ecotype started to be appreciated for its gastronomic qualities. This was when the first industrial preservation methods emerged through the work of Francesco Cirio, who produced his famous canned ‘peeled tomatoes’ for sauce. San Marzano tomatoes are characterized by their elongated shape and bright red color, as well as their low number of seeds. They are cultivated with traditional methods and the harvest lasts all summer – from July until September.
Cook it
San Marzano tomatoes boast a unique flavor – sweet but tart – which make them suitable both to be eaten raw, or cooked into sauce. The first person to pair pasta with sauce was Ippolito Cavalcanti, the duke of Buonvicino.
Tradition states that once they’re picked, they are placed in jars and cooked for 13 minutes. In this way, the tomatoes will last for at least a year.
There are many recipes from around Campania that call for San Marzano tomatoes. One classic way is to use them for tomato sauce because, once cooked, the skin is easy to remove. You’ll end up with a very flavorful, thick sauce. And to make the perfect margherita pizza, you’ll also need San Marzano tomatoes, maybe with Campania buffalo mozzarella and some fresh basil.
Did you know that?
“The Bible of tomatoes” as the Washington Post dubbed the San Marzano tomato, is one of the main ingredients of “La Strada della Mozzarella”, an international congress of haute cuisine aimed at investigating the potential of quality Italian agricultural produce in the hands of great chefs. The San Marzano tomato is very widespread in traditional cuisine: for example, they’re used in ‘totani alla Sorrentina’, a tasty seafood-based dish. With dense pulp and a vibrant red color, they’re ideal for making tomato passata. They say that this thick and flavorful sauce “literally clings to the pasta.” Another recipe is “vascuotto”, where a hard, dried bread is softened with a mix of San Marzano tomatoes and water, and topped with seasonal vegetables like eggplant and broccoli, then seasoned with basil, oregano and olive oil. Or you can cooked cubes of bread with San Marzano tomato purée, oil and fresh garlic, and serve with grated cheese like cacioricotta cilentana.
